Lumpini Stadium Bangkok: Muay Thai Mecca

Whether you are visiting or living in Thailand, Lumpini Stadium is a place that everyone needs to attend at least once. The stadium is a true domain of gladiators, and the site of countless battles between some of the best boxers and Muay Thai fighters in the world.

Much like the Roman Coliseum, Bangkok’s Lumpini Stadium is filled with ghosts of the past. The spirits of gloved warriors who fought for fame and fortune prowl the dimly lit arena with authority day in and day out. Only Rajdamnern Stadium, also in Bangkok, rivals the prestige of holding the title of Muay Thai Champion of Lumpini Stadium and simply fighting in Lumpini is an honor in itself.

Fighters and fans pass through the stadium doors for what is but a brief glimpse of those boxers deemed worthy of admittance. Inside and out, enthusiasts nourish the old stadium - its combatants feed off the roar of the four-thousand strong crowds, perpetually charged with electricity.

“O-way, o-way” chants the crowd with each blow those in the ring put forth. They sing in unison and it doesn’t take long before foreigners are cheering along too.

Foreigners or Farang as they are referred to in Thailand, normally fill the pricey ringside seats. Tickets for these seats and the other levels have doubled in price over the past ten years. Chalk it up to worldwide growth and shrewd marketing.

Most Thai fans are content to sit in the outer region of the stadium – behind a chain link fence. While gambling in Thailand is technically illegal, it is not in Lumpini Stadium. Any visitor stepping in to the circular arena will immediately notice the frenzied betting around the ring – for Thais, the gambling is one of the main attractions of going to the stadium.

Muay Thai shows take place at Lumpini Stadium four times per week. Occasionally there is western style boxing included along with the Muay Thai but the vast majorities are bouts allowing not only punches, but also kicks, knees and elbows. Those who enter the ring are generally fearful of the elbow for one blow can end a fight and scar a fighter forever.

The western style boxers who fight in the stadium are more often than not highly rated fighters or champions however every so often there are amateur fights and less than experienced professionals.

The stadium is a revolving door of fighters and rarely sleeps. During the down times, food vendors, equipment merchants, ticket scalpers, and a host of other characters surround the dingy building, slowly recuperating from the previous evening or preparing for the coming night’s festivities.

Lumpini Stadium opened for action on December 8, 1956. Operated by Thailand’s Army Welfare Department of the Royal Thai Army, all proceeds from the fights go towards supporting the various departments of the Thai Army. The initial reason for opening the venue was to promote Thai boxing worldwide and in Thailand. Over the years though, the stadium has become a tourism bonanza and known around the world. It is now much more than just a stadium to its visitors. Along with Rajdamnern Stadium, it is considered the home of Muay Thai.

Currently there are approximately a dozen promoters presented with the responsibility of bringing fighters to fight in the stadium. Women are not allowed to fight in the stadium or enter then ring, period. Boxers must be male, over fifteen years-of-age, weigh over 100 lbs and a five-pound weight difference between the boxers is the maximum.

In early 2006, plans were made to demolish the fabled stadium and make way for the world’s tallest building. These plans were scrapped for a number of reasons; one reason, it was determined naming the new venue any thing other than Lumpini Stadium would be detrimental to its history and future prosperity. Another reason may have had something to do with the Thai builders remarkable inability to finish the vast majority of construction projects they begin or plan.

Fortunately, Lumpini Stadium is alive, well, and fights still take place regularly. Shows are on Tuesday and Friday (6:30 PM) and Saturday (4:30 PM and 8:30 PM). Ticket prices for foreigners are 2000 baht ($57), 1500 baht ($43) and 1000 baht ($29). Be forewarned–ticket prices for Thai patrons are considerably lower, as Thailands’ dual pricing structure is as firmly in place as ever.

When you arrive to the stadium, touts offering discounted tickets will undoubtedly approach you. Bargain hard–you should be able to save 300-500 baht off the price shown at the stadium ticket booth. A party of four in the market for ringside seats should be able to negotiate one free ticket. All ringside tickets include a free beverage.

Nick Gatsby has lived in Bangkok for nearly ten years. He has done everything from teaching English to exporting Thai goods to his current love, photographing and writing about Southeast Asia.

View All Articles By: Nick Gatsby

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